After several years with no issue, mine started the dreaded E1 error. But if I pressed up or down arrow, the transformer came on and ran fine for the rest of the night. So it wasn't caused by the load (length of cable or current draw) or a ground fault. Download windows 10 free.
I took the case apart (6 screws). Inside is a small 'controller' in a plastic case. The case has 2 screws holding it to the backplane metal. Removing it, the case has 4 small screws on the back holding the cover on. Removing the cover, there is a circuit board with some chips, diodes, resistors, and capacitors. The smaller 'can' style capacitors looked OK (you can usually tell when they are shot because they swell up or burst). The biggest cap (redish-orange color mounted horizontallt) is a different type - a metalized film capacitor. I de-soldered it and tested - sure enough - bad. Markings said CL21 305J 250V. Dungeon magazine list. Checked on ebay and found the closest rated one - actually a little higher rated (335J 250V CL21) cost $2.99 for 2 of them plus $1.99 shipping. It came about 2 wks ago and once soldered-in and reassembled. It fixed the problem. Unit is now like new. So, that E-1 can indicate other types of failures besides those listed here. The odd behavior with mine being that the initial start-up failed (after working for years), but a press of the buttons cleared the E-1, indicated to me that it was failing inside the start-up logic. Since it was effectively useless to me, I wasn't concerned about the risk of takling it apart to see what could be wrong. Glad I did, because I really liked this power supply.
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Hampton Bay 200 Watt Transformer
Hampton Bay Low-voltage 120-watt Landscape Transformer Manual
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